EATS

BLACK OLIVE

With a hopelessly romantic back story (which you can find on the website) that reads like a lost chapter from Jeffrey Eugenides's “Middlesex,” the Spiliadis family's authentic-Greek-cooking pedigree is unimpeachable. So is their restaurant, a cozy Fells Point establishment in a made-over general store that serves up the freshest of the fresh whole fish, astonishingly delicious beef, seafood, and veal kabobs, and a wine list to satisfy even the pickiest of conoisseurs. The Black Olive isn't cheap, but you'll hardly care. Food this great and service this attentive is absolutely worth the cost.